Vaccinations play a critical role in ensuring your pet grows up in the best of health. Much in the same way that children have to receive vaccinations at certain ages, so do puppies!
Dogs are susceptible to certain types of illnesses which vaccinations help them to ward off. A mother dog protects her puppy until around six to twelve weeks after birth. When the puppies are first born, she passes on her immunity mechanism by providing disease-fighting antibodies in her first milk. This is called the Maternally Derived Antibody (MDA), also known as “passive immunity.”
When the puppy begins to wean off of his mother’s milk and starts eating solid foods, he won’t get nearly as much antibody protection. He will have none at all after he makes the complete transition to regular dog food. Most vets recommend vaccinating puppies six weeks or older. You won’t have very good luck getting your dog vaccinated before this age as their immune systems are usually too weak to handle the vaccine. The first set of vaccines given around this age are referred to as the core vaccines, which cover distemper, adenovirus, parvovirus, and rabies.
Your pup will need to return at nine and twelve weeks of age to get the second and third portion of these vaccines, and then again at fifteen weeks for an examination.
You may have heard of dogs receiving other vaccinations, commonly referred to as “non-core vaccines.” They are called this because they are usually for illnesses that aren’t as severe to all breeds of dog. Some breeds of dog are particularly susceptible to a certain illness, in which case the vet may recommend that they be given a vaccine as a preventative measure.
Some dog owners fear the side effects of vaccination for their pets. This is a valid concern, but the benefits of vaccination far exceed the risks. Effectiveness may not be guaranteed 100% but with the combination of proper nutrition and eating habits, a good and sanitized environment, vaccination is a great way to protect your dog and other of your pets as well.
In addition to getting your pet vaccinated, it’s important that you provide a healthy diet. Not all dry dog foods live up to their promise of providing the highest quality of ingredients. If you want more information about what’s really in store-bought dog food, visit Dog Food for Life to read the Confidential Dog Food Report.
Filed under Animal Info by on Nov 18th, 2009. Comment. 
Taking on the responsibility of caring for a puppy is a pretty important action. Not only do you have to worry about house training, but also about ensuring that you are providing the right food for your pup.
There are many dog foods available on the market that are supposed to cater to the needs of a puppy, but many of them are not nearly as healthy as they appear. That’s why we’ve put together this article to encourage you to give homemade puppy chow/treats a try. By making your dog’s food yourself, you can rest assured knowing that your dog is only eating healthy, natural foods.
The following recipes are for puppy formulas, which will then be followed by everyday meal recipes for when your pup gets a bit older. Don’t worry—they’re easy to read and follow, and most of them can be thrown together in a snap!
Formula Recipe 1:
2/3 cup goat milk canned (or just regular canned milk)
1/3 cup water or Pedialyte
1 teaspoon Karo Syrup
1 egg yolk
1 teaspoon Dyne or pediatric vitamin
Strain a couple of times to make sure there is no albumin in the mixture, although it has been used successfully without egg at all.
Variation: 1 can of Condensed Milk rather than goat’s milk (it may be too high in protein and put a strain on the puppy’s kidneys) and 1 envelope of Knox unflavored gelatin in addition to other ingredients (helps keep stools solid).
Formula Recipe 2:
2 cups hot water
1 can Evaporated milk
2 eggs
2 tablespoons Karo syrup
2 envelopes Knox unflavored gelatin
Mix thoroughly to get the gelatin working.
Meat and Potato Meal:
12 ½ cups of potatoes, chunked
3 pounds beef heart, cut into chunks
¼ cup vegetable oil
1 cup zucchini, squash, carrots or peas
6 tablespoons dog powder
4 teaspoons bone meal (Check the label, it should have 1300-1500 mg of calcium per tablespoon. If it doesn’t, adjust the amount you use accordingly.)
In a large pot, boil the potatoes until they become soft. If you choose to cook the meat, pour out half the water and add the beef heart chunks. Then simmer until they are no longer pink. Add the remaining ingredients. If you are feeding raw, pour off all of the water after you cook the potatoes, and just add the beef heart with the remaining ingredients.
Servings: Toy dogs: 1-2 cups, Small dogs: 3-4 cups, Medium dogs: 6-7 cups, Large dogs: 8-9 cups per day, Giant dogs: 9 cups per day
Chicken and Barley Delight:
2 ½ cups barley
3 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs
¼ cup dog oil supplement
1 cup peas, cooked celery, or squash
6 tablespoons dog powder
4 teaspoons bone meal (Check the label; it should have 1300-1500 mg of calcium per tablespoon. If it doesn’t, adjust the amount you use accordingly.)
Heat 7 ½ cups of water in a large pot until it comes to a boil. Add the barley and cook until it softens. If you choose to cook the meat, add it now and boil it just until the pink color disappears. Then, take the pot off the heat and add the remaining ingredients.
Servings: Toy dogs: 1-2 cups, Small dogs: 3-4 cups, Medium dogs: 6-7 cups, Large dogs: 8-9 cups per day, Giant dogs: 9 cups per day
The Dog Food for Life eBook has plenty of other great recipes, as well as vital information regarding diet, health, and hygiene that are a must-know for any dog owner. Visit Dog Food for Life Here
Filed under Animal Info by on Nov 18th, 2009. Comment.
Click here to visit Dog Food for Life
Many of us pet owners do not give much thought to our dog’s teeth. However, it should be noted that pets seldom experience tooth decay, due to their non-acidic saliva, cone-shaped teeth and natural cleaning from their habit of chewing and gnawing. This being said, that does not mean that dogs are completely impervious to infection and tartar buildup. An owner who notices that his pet has bad breath must recognize this as a sign that infection is already present and that tartar has already built up. Tartar can be found below the gums and breeds bacterial growth, leading to inflammation.
One way to prevent infection is by brushing your dog’s teeth. Yes, that’s right! Toothpastes and toothbrushes designed especially for dogs are already available in the market. The finger brush – similar to that for the human infant – is a rubber hood worn by the owner over his finger. The product has soft rubber bristles on one side and is used by the owner to clean the teeth and massage the gums of his pet. The finger brush can later be replaced by a regular dog toothbrush after the pet becomes accustomed to the cleaning process.
As we were taught when we were first learning to brush our teeth, circular motion is the proper way to brush, and the same applies to brushing your dog’s teeth. After you have brushed all over your dog’s teeth with a circular motion, follow up with soft vertical strokes.
It is not necessary for you to brush your dog’s teeth every day (remember that your dog’s saliva isn’t acidic, like a human’s, and they get a lot of natural tartar removal through gnawing on bones and toys!). If you brush your dog’s teeth two or three times a week, that will greatly help to reduce any tartar that might build up below the gum line. If you are able to, try scheduling an appointment with your dog’s vet to scale and clean his teeth. It’s not a very expensive procedure and only needs to be done about once every three years—or two if your dog seems to have problematic chompers. You can also get a copy of the Dog Food for Life eBook, which has helpful information about doggy hygiene and diet.
I encourage you to visit Dog Food for Life for more information about canine hygiene and diet.
Filed under Animal Info by on Nov 16th, 2009. Comment.
Click here to visit Dog Food for Life
If your dog hasn’t been in the pinnacle of health lately, you might consider taking a look at his diet. Have you switched dog food brands lately? You might be surprised to learn that many commercial dog food brands are not supplying the nutrients that your dog needs to function in top health.
The first step in re-evaluating your pet’s diet is to understand which ingredients are necessary to promote good health, and which ingredients can be destructive to your dog’s health. We’re going to discuss the nutrients that your pet food should contain, as well as ingredients that are unhealthy or even harmful for your dog.
The most common nutrients your dog needs are protein, carbohydrates, fat, vitamins and minerals, as well as water. These nutrients have to be supplied in the right amounts so that they are properly digested and absorbed by the body. Remember that your dog, or any dog for that matter, is a carnivore, meaning his body mainly uses meat. Many dog foods on the market today contain large amounts of grains or vegetables, which are not nearly as beneficial to your dog as the protein found in meat. Any dog food you purchase (or make yourself) should contain, at the very least, forty percent meat. However, there are other sources, aside from meats, that dog food companies can derive the necessary protein from, such as plants and grains like corn, wheat, and soy.
The Dog Food for Life eBook contains tons of great DIY recipes for treats, everyday food, and even desserts for your dog!
Many dog food brands—even the top competitors—contain items that are not only inefficient as a source of nutrients, but down-right dangerous for your dog. If your dog’s food simply states that it contains “meat,” you might need to brace yourself for what you’re about to read next. The term “meat,” as it pertains to the dog food market could mean anything from euthanized animals from vets/shelters to road-kill. Other things to watch out for are unidentified fats, BHA and BHT, artificial colors, Menadione Sodium Bisulfate, Propylene Glycol, Brewers Rice, Cellulose, Ethoxyquin, Propyl Gallate, and Gluten.
To get a good grasp on which items make up the bulk of your dog’s food, remember that ingredients are always listed from largest percentage to smallest . If your dog’s food is primarily made up of chicken and lamb, those ingredients will be listed first, followed by the next item of significant quantity, and so on.
Now that you know what your dog’s food should consist of, take a look at the package to determine whether your dog’s diet is in need of change. If you are afraid your pet may be in poor health due to his/her diet, consult with a veterinarian immediately.
If you would like to learn more about dog food ingredients and which brands to avoid/pursue, go to Dog Food for Life.
Filed under Animal Info by on Nov 16th, 2009. Comment.
It’s no surprise with the financial crunch we’re all living in, that many of us pet owners are on the hunt for cheaper pet accessories. When hunting for cheap dog steps, we have two options, which are to buy them or make them ourselves.
Dog steps can seem like a luxury when money is short. However, the advantage to dog steps is that they enable dogs with special needs to get to places where their humans live.
Dog steps can be a vital assistance to smaller breeds of dogs, such as teacup poodles, Chihuahuas, Pekineses, and other similar breeds. They can actually fracture or full-out break their legs by jumping from high furniture such as beds or sofas. Think of how costly it would be to take your dog to the vet to treat a broken leg, not to mention the heartache it can cause by knowing it could be prevented.
Older dogs with arthritis or larger dogs with conditions such as hip displacement also benefit from dog steps suitable for their size and weight. The trick to buying cheap dog steps is to know what size and materials are right for your dog.
You can easily purchase an inexpensive set of pet stairs for around $20, which are usually made from foam and covered in carpet of a similar substance. These can be purchased online or at some retail shops.
If you fancy yourself a craft project, you may attempt to build your own pet steps. However, this can be a great deal more expensive than purchasing one online, especially if you require large dog steps.
Whether you buy your dog steps or make them yourself, one very important thing you will need to take into consideration is the size of your dog. If you have a large dog, he will require steps that are at least 16 inches wide. Medium-sized dogs (around 35 pounds) need a maximum step width of 14 inches, and for smaller dogs the step width should be no more than about 12 inches.
Height is also a factor. Dog steps work inversely according to your dog’s size. That means that smaller dogs may need higher steps, while larger dogs can ascend with shorter steps.
Finally, be sure your cheap dog steps are sturdy enough to support your dog’s weight. Test your dog on a sample of the steps if possible. If not, be sure to check any weight information on the product label. The last thing you want is for your precious pet to fall through a step and hurt itself.
Filed under Animal Info by on Jul 20th, 2009. Comment.
The speed at which a puppy puts on weight varies depending upon the breed of dog and whether or not it receives enough exercise or food. There are general puppy weight estimates you can use as a guideline for raising your puppy, however if you suspect that your puppy is either over or underweight, talk to your vet for a confirmation.
You can use the Internet as a resource for finding out roughly how much your puppy should weigh at particular age plateaus. Many veterinary office and websites have a dog weight chart you can look at, which determines a dog’s healthy weight based on an age to size ratio for each dog breed.
Many sites will publish a separate chart for each dog breed, or you can ask your vet for a puppy growth rate guide. If you are at all unsure whether your puppy is a safe weight, simply pop into the vet’s office for a check-up. If anything is wrong, your vet will be able to advise you of the proper foods your puppy should be receiving, and in some cases recommend a diet food brand or issue a nutrition supplement for under-nourished puppies.
It’s a good idea to understand the breed of a dog before taking on the care of one. Larger breed dogs will usually put weight on more quickly than a smaller dog, and breeds which are particularly athletic may weigh more due to their muscularity. For instance, a hunting dog, such as an English Springer Spaniel won’t put on as much weight as an English mastiff, because Springer Spaniels are wiry/athletic where mastiffs are extremely large and less active. Each dog growth rate depends upon the ultimate size of the breed.
If you can’t seem to find any information on your dog’s growth rate, ask your vet if they would be willing to give you a guide for your pup’s first two years of growth, make a record of it, and keep it somewhere visible where you can check up often. A good place would be near your dog food storage area or on the refrigerator.
Filed under Dogs by on Jul 20th, 2009. Comment.
Dogs should be vaccinated against the following diseases;
Young puppies should have a combination vaccination known as DHLP-P which will give them protection against parvovirus, hepatitis, leptospirosis, distemper and parainfluenza. It is also necessary that they receive a booster injection every year.
Distemper is an extremely serious disease which can lead to death unless the animal has been vaccinated. It begins with respiratory problems in the animal which can be followed by seizures and lead to the dog dying.
Leptospirosis is a disease that affects the organs of the animal namely the liver and the kidneys. This disease is not prevalent in dogs.
Parvovirus which attacks the immune system of the dog by destroying the white blood cells is a deadly disease. The Doberman and Rottweiler breeds of dogs are particularly susceptible to contracting this disease and in smaller dogs especially the mortality rate can be as high as 1 in 4. Continuous retching and bloody stools as well as severe hydration are serious consequences of this disease.
It is important to have young puppies vaccinated against rabies when they are between 4 – 6 months of age. Older dogs normally would receive a rabies vaccination on a yearly basis. This is a viral disease that is deadly on the central nervous system of the animal and is a public health threat if not contained.
Dogs that are boarded at kennels on a regular basis or who often come into contact with other dogs e.g. at grooming parlors should be given a bordetella vaccination as a protective measure. This disease also known as kennel cough affects the respiratory system of the animal and causes it cough. It is a highly contagious airborne disease
Booster injections are also available as and when they are necessary. Consult your veterinarian as to how often they should be given.
Vaccinations against Coronavirus should be given to young puppies and an annual booster injection should follow. This intestinal disease leads to peritonitis.
It is always best to consult your veterinarian for dog health advice as to how often vaccinations should be given depending on what has already been administered and at what age. It should not be underestimated how essential vaccinations for certain diseases are. Neglecting them or the follow up booster injections could have devastating and fatal consequences for your animal.
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Filed under Dog Health by on Mar 18th, 2009. 4 Comments.
